Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its heart: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children do not want to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
